Avedon AND Kennedy at the PEM

It's like a perfect storm of greatness. Kennedy family portraits by photographer Richard Avedon.I'm really torn here. I don't know whether I want to gush over the the President and Mrs. Kennedy, Caroline, and baby John, or Richard Avedon. I do know that Salem is a very lucky place to have the Peabody Essex Museum and their Curator of Photography Phillip Prodger, who brought Avedon and Kennedy to Salem for a few months.

So I'll gush over the PEM, an institution that makes connections between Salem and the art and culture of the world through its special and permanent exhibits. Last weekend the PEM was alive with Sensational India ("How was Sensational India," I asked. There was only one response, of course - "Sensational!") And now we journey to twentieth century American photography and the political realm of 1961. Adjacent to Avedon? The Maya and the Mythic Sea. Downstairs? American Decorative Arts. Out the window? The only example of 18th-century Chinese architecture in America. IN SALEM. Gush.

Back to Avedon. This exhibit was created by the National Museum of American History and organized for travel by the Smithsonian Institution traveling Exhibition Services (SITES). The Smithsonian in Salem at the PEM. In the form of Avedon. And the Kennedys. Be still my heart.

Taken for Harpers Bazaar and Look, These are the only formal pictures taken of Kennedy between his election and inauguration. Avedon was an amazing photographer, and you get a true sense of his craft through the images. At the exhibit preview last night, Phillip Prodger pointed out that at the time, Avedon was cutting edge. Most portrait photographers would shoot their subject in a space that provided context - a library or an office, for example. Avedon photographed his subjects on a white or gray background.

In addition to the portraits, there are a number of contact sheets included in the exhibit, and these show series of twelve images made to get one shot. Through the contact sheets, you will not only discover the charisma and elegance of the Kennedys, Avedon also shares family connections and the mood of the photo shoot.

Prodger pointed out that Avedon was expert at burning and dodging - or adjusting the exposure of the image - making Jackie appear to have a bit of a halo in one of the images. She glows in one portrait. I was slightly disappointed to learn it was photographic manipulation that gave her that ethereal appearance. Disappointment aside, Avedon's manipulation and talent created a stunning portrait.

I'm done gushing now. Go see the exhibit. Let me know what you think.

The Kennedys | Portrait of a Family: Photographs by Richard Avedon is a fantastic exhibition. It opens on Saturday, April 17 and runs through July 18, 2010. Do see it.

Salem Restaurant Week

It's not too late to get out and eat yummy food... Spring Restaurant Week is only half-cooked!

Grab your date and your appetite, and head out to one of these participating restaurants to take advantage of a prix fixed 3-course dinner for $25!

Reservations are recommended, and please mention "Restaurant Week" when you call.

Capt's Waterfront Grill & Club - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
94 Wharf Street, Salem, MA - (978) 741-0555

Capt’s Waterfront Grill and Pub on Pickering Wharf is known for amazing harborside views and mouthwatering meals, including signature dishes expertly prepared on authentic charcoal grills. With two dining levels, a function room, and seasonal outdoor seating, Capt’s is the ideal spot for drinks with friends, a romantic dinner or a special celebration. Stop in during Capt’s extended Restaurant Week, Sunday, April 11th – Saturday, April 17th and enjoy dining deals on delicious fixed price meals from our special Restaurant Week Menu.

Cilantro
282 Derby Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-9436

Mexican cuisine is one of the world’s most complex and evocative. The range and subtlety of the flavors can be breathtaking. The food at Cilantro is appealing in its quest to present a wider range of Mexican food in authentic dishes. They take the high road, an upscale approach to a cuisine that is so often shorthanded. The restaurant is in a pretty room painted in deep teal with a few tasteful prints on the wall. The plates are beautifully decorated; there’s a nice little bar and the staff is very welcoming and solicitous.

Finz Seafood Restaurant & Grill - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu.
76 Wharf Street, Salem, MA - (978) 744-0000

Finz seafood and grill has long had a reputation in Salem and around New England for fresh, innovative seafood and grill fare, not to mention delicious specialty drinks. With indoor and outdoor waterfront dining, Finz is a great place to relax and enjoy outstanding food and drinks.

Grapevine Restaurant
26 Congress Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-9335

Readers in Zagat Boston's restaurant survey write that the Grapevine restaurant is hands down 'one of the best on the North Shore' . . . that this Salem 'gem' compares favorably 'with some of the best restaurants in Boston'

The Lobster Shanty - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
25 Front Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-5449

We are a local dive bar that secretly has class. Great food, great service all served in a very casual atmosphere with absolutely no pretense. We welcome anyone to join us at the Shanty. This is one place where you can let your freak flag fly. Our patio allows well-behaved dogs, we even have a doggie menu. Don't worry about bringing water bowls, we've got some.

The Lyceum - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
43 Church Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-7665

George Harrington established the original Lyceum Bar & Grill in 1989 in an historic former lecture hall made famous by the likes of Thoreau, Hawthorne, Emerson, and Alexander Graham Bell. Twenty years later, together with a new generation of partners and a new vision, another chapter of the Lyceum's storied past begins: a classic bistro in historic Salem serving Mediterranean-inspired favorites in a contemporary yet casual atmosphere.

Nathaniel's at the Hawthorne Hotel - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
18 Washington Square West, Salem, MA - (978) 825-4311

For an unforgettable dining experience, visitors from all points of the compass enjoy the ambiance, warm hospitality and award-winning seasonal cuisine of Nathaniel’s Restaurant. Our menu offers a range of dishes, including historic items from a bygone era to contemporary, eclectic fare.

Passage to India
157 Washington Street, Salem, MA - (978) 832-2200

Passage to India offers delicious cuisine including a number of kabob choices, lamb and chicken selections, seafood entrees and mixed grill dinners. We use only the freshest ingredients and we are a favorite in the neighborhood.

Regatta Pub at the Waterfront Hotel - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
225 Derby Street, Salem, MA - (978) 740-8788

The Regatta offers casual dining with flair. Try our signature “Regatta Blue” martini with your favorite burger or our fresh seafood with a glass of chilled wine. We offer an eclectic choice of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, and entrees in a relaxed and nautical inspired atmosphere or dine outside. Weather permitting, outdoor dining is available on The Regatta’s patio seasonally.

Rockafellas
231 Essex Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-2411

Rockafellas established a new tradition in dining in the center of historic Salem in 2003. As the most delicious occupant of the renowned Daniel Low Building, our restaurant follows several other institutions of reputation including a department store, a bank (the vault now stores wines) and one of the first churches in America. Our menu features fresh seafood and Black Angus steaks and offers everything from burgers and salads and tapas to gourmet presentations. Our wait staff assures a relaxed atmosphere where everyone feels at home.

Sixty2 on Wharf
62 Wharf Street, Salem, MA - (978) 744-0062

Sixty2 on Wharf is a Modern Italian trattoria serving contemporary versions of regional Italian classics in downtown Salem. Chef Antonio Bettencourt and his team are dedicated to using the best locally-sourced, all natural ingredients in season and at the peak of flavor. The cooking at Sixty2 on Wharf shows true soul and a commitment to the true "craft" of cooking. Our all-Italian wine list is chosen especially to match our distinctive cuisine and highlights premier and hard to find Italian winemakers.

Tavern at the Hawthorne Hotel
18 Washington Square West, Salem, MA - (978) 825-4342

Equally inviting is our oak-paneled fireplaced Tavern -- an intimate gathering spot offering casual fare and creative libations. Overlooking the beautiful Salem Common, the Tavern is the perfect spot for lunch, after-work beverages, or fun food fast. Enjoy our new flat-screen televisions for major sporting events.

Thai Place
Museum Place Mall, Salem, MA - (978) 741-8008

Thai Place Restaurant has been open since 1990. Being the first Thai Restaurant in the North Shore area of Massachusetts, we are proud to be one of the first establishments to present the unique taste, culture and sincerity of Thailand. Our dedication to prepare the finest Thai food comes with experience, care for our customers and careful selection of the freshest ingredients.

Victoria Station - Click HERE for Restaurant Week Menu
86 Wharf Street, Salem, MA - (978) 745-3400

Overlooking Salem harbor we have established ourselves as a destination for friends and family for decades and have committed to grow providing lasting memories for generations to come. Offering a wide variety of fine American cuisine from succulent steaks to the freshest seafood and one of the last remaining “All you can eat” salad bars there is something for every member of the culinary community.

Reign of Terror: The Salem Murder of 1830

I don't know if it's appropriate to say the story of the White Murder is one of Salem's best stories, but it is a great tale of intrigue. Learn about it yourself at Cornerstone Books on Tuesday night.

Here's a synopsis to get you interested...

180 years ago, on the night of April 6, 1830, in the quiet seaport of Salem, Capt. Joseph White, 82, one of the wealthiest men in America, was killed in his house on Essex Street. Nothing had been stolen, and there seemed to be no motive for the crime. For several weeks, Salem experienced a reign of terror: the killer or killers remained at large, despite the efforts of a “Committee of Vigilance” that tried to hunt them down. White’s nephew and chief heir, State Sen. Stephen White, was framed for the murder, but at last the true killer and his employers were identified, and the whole nation was shocked at the revelations.

Come to the meeting of the Salem History Society at Cornerstone Books, 45 Lafayette St., Salem, on Tuesday evening, April 13, 7:30-9 PM, for an illustrated talk by historian Robert Booth and discussion about The White Murder and what it meant to Salem—in 1820 America’s richest place, per capita, and 8^th-largest population center, but by 1830 a town in which crime flourished and a flagging maritime commerce had tragic consequences worldwide.

All are welcome!

Experience a "comedy of excellent manners" with Salem Theatre Company

Salem Theatre Company has a lot going on - they have a new theatre, they ran a very successful new theatre showcase in March, and now they have opened their first production on their very own stage.

Congratulations to the members of the Salem Theatre Company! It is so exciting to see you grow and succeed.

Later Life, a comedy by A.R. Gurney directed by STC's John Fogle, opened last night in the theatre on Lafayette Street.
Here's the story: Austin, played by Stephen Cooper, has spent his entire life convinced that something terrible is bound to happen to him. One night, at a party overlooking Boston Harbor, he rekindles a romance begun three decades ago with Ruth, played by Sarah Carlin. Now a multiple divorcee, Ruth’s personal life is in such turmoil that mutual friends look to Austin as Ruth’s last show at normalcy. They also hope the wildly unpredictable Ruth will loosen Austin from the grip of years of lifelessness. Comically, and sometimes painfully, these two people rediscover each other and themselves while a bevy of free-spirited guests rally behind them and remind them of the infinite possibilities that life holds, should one only choose to pursue them.

I loved watching the dialogue between Ruth and Austin. It is at times painful, but the timing was perfect, providing a new character to lighten the tone and give Austin and Ruth a break from the connection they are working so hard to make.

Half of the cast is tasked with playing two rolls, which they did ably. James Wilcox was fantastic, playing both Jim and Duane. His soliloquy about smoking was marvelous (fear not, and I quote the program, "no tobacco products are consumed during this performance). Lynn Shane's Nancy was wonderfully comedic. Grace Butler and Brian Casey played two couples in two different stages of life - one heading north, one heading south - gave us all a look at what life after fifty could be with great humor.

Later Life is running April 8 - 25. Thursday, Fridays, and Saturdays at 7:30 PM and Sundays at 3:00 PM. Tickets are $20 adults and $15 seniors and students.

On Thursday, April 15, there will be a talk-back with the cast and director.

Go see Later Life. And heed it's warning: Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think.

These Treasures Matter!

The National Trust for Historic Preservation is running a campaign to save America's treasures. Today the Essex National Heritage Commission organized photos that let the world know that there are two (at least!) treasures in Salem that matter.

Here's the tall ship Friendship at the Salem Maritime National Historic Site:

and the Custom House at the Salem Maritime National Historic Site:

Just two of the many, many treasures we have in Salem.

So much in Salem (yet again!)

I spent my morning in meetings, the second of which was at the Hawthorne Hotel where we were fed yummy, and might I add warm, cookies. It's hard to complain about a long agenda with a snickerdoodle in your hand.

That said, everywhere I've turned today I have been given programming, events, and festivals. I just can't keep all of this information to myself, so here are a few bullet points - and links for more information.

First off, this weekend the Peabody Essex Museum is hosting Sensational India, a weekend celebration of the art, music, dance, and cuisine of India. Acitivites are for all ages, but many require reservations, so check the pem.org for more information.

Sensational India in Salem! How cool is that? We love the PEM.
Next in queue, we will celebrate Spring Restaurant Week next week, April 11 - 15. Make reservations at one of the participating restaurants and enjoy a prix fixed, three course dinner for $25. What a great date night!

Restaurant Week is the excuse you've been waiting for to try a new restaurant, or get back to an old favorite.

After you've filled up on fine cuisine, get in shape during Health & Wellness Week. Organized by Salem Main Streets, this is what we hope will be an annual celebration of all things healthy in Salem. Plan your work out, your Yoga, your spa service, and be entered into a raffle for fantastic prizes. Health and Wellness Week will run April 12-17.

The Salem Farmers' Market doesn't open until June 17, but you can get in the mood for locally grown foods at Sixty2 on Wharf this Sunday, April 12. Sixty2 is hosting the Cultivating Community Fundraiser for the Salem Farmers' Market. There will be live jazz music, a cash bar, a silent auction, and passed hors d'oeuvres. Tickets are $20 and they are going fast. They are available at Sixty2 on Wharf and the Salem Chamber of Commerce.

There's more, too. Visit the calendar on Salem.org for a complete listing of all of the things to do this weekend and all season.

Northey Street House Bed & Breakfast

We had a fantastic breakfast at the Northey Street House Bed & Breakfast last week, and as you may have noticed, good food pretty much guarantees a blog post. Northey Street House is a nineteenth-century Federal style home that is on the National Register of Historic Places. It has been renovated and restored into a lovely place to stay when visiting Salem.

I'm going to talk about breakfast first and then the bed, because breakfast was crazy-delicious. Innkeeper Flora Tonthat served apple-rhubarb crisp (with rhubarb from the inn's garden that she preserved from last season), whole grain banana nut muffins with sunflower seeds (yum!), goat cheese and herb scones, and fresh fruit. There were mini quiche, too, which I did not have because I was too busy with the sweeter side of breakfast. As if that's not enough, Flora happily whipped up scrambled eggs for a guest who was not a fan of quiche.

The coffee was phenomenal, too.

Flora told us that she likes to eat healthy and buy local, or in the summer season pick fresh foods from her garden behind the house. I can't wait to stop by during the summer to see the garden in full-bloom.

That was breakfast, now for the bed... Northey Street House has three rooms and a family suite. Two of the rooms have interior entrances, and the family suite and garden room have exterior entrances. The rooms are well appointed and the entire house is very comfortable. The family suite includes a kitchen, bedroom, sitting room with a daybed and bathroom. All of the rooms have private baths.

The house is walking distance from downtown Salem, the train station, and all of the attractions, but it is off the beaten path so you have the best of both worlds - secluded garden retreat, short walk to dinner.

During breakfast, we talked with Joe and Joan from Long Island about their visit to Salem. They came up to Salem for four days of their vacation, and here's how they were spending their time:

• Day one driving up the coast to see Gloucester and Rockport via the beautiful Route 127, and had dinner at Sixty2 on Wharf;
• Day two exploring Salem, specifically the Peabody Essex Museum and the House of the Seven Gables, with lunch at Reds and dinner at Bella Verona;
• Day three they took the train into Boston and explored the Public Garden, Charles Street, Boston Common, and the North End, where they had dinner;
• Day four they were heading into Boston again and hoped to go to Finz on Pickering Wharf for dinner.

Clearly Northey Street House can be a perfect home base for exploration of Salem, the north of Boston, and greater Boston regions.

Thanks for breakfast, Flora! It was fantastic!

(And there we are, team Destination Salem, photographed in the living room of the Northey Street House. That's me, Kate, on the left, and Stacia is sitting on the right.)